Zam designer Pol Puare: biography thiab yees duab

Ib tug ci ntsa iab, zoo txiv neej Pol Puare rightly khwv tau lub title uas huab tais ntawm Paris zam. Nws tsis yog raws nraim kuv cov tug paub (uas yog forgivable zoo txuj ci) "hnav khaub ncaws era", feem ntau zoo nkauj thiab nto moo poj niam ntawm lub sij hawm. Ntawm nws cov neeg - tag nrho ntawm European, xws li Lavxias teb sab aristocracy, raws li zoo raws li tswv yim rau cov tib neeg. Nws contemporaries twb Koko Shanel, Zhak Duse, Charlz Uort, NP Lamanova thiab thiaj li nyob. D.

Pol Puare, biography: hauv thaum ntxov xyoo

Tom ntej no zoo kawg zam designer uas tau yug los nyob rau hauv Paris nyob rau hauv textiles lag luam tsev neeg. Hais txog yuav ua li cas nws thaum yau yog ib qho nyuaj rau hais tias, vim hais tias tsis muaj txhim khu kev qha cov ntaub ntawv. Nyob rau hauv nws biographical phau ntawv los ntawm Poiret nce tsom rua dresses, sketches thiab cov kaus mom, uas twb nyob rau hauv lub sij hawm uas nyob nws lub siab thiab lub tswv yim. Los ntawm ib tug hluas hnub nyoog nws kroil thiab xaws lawv tus kheej rau lawv cov viv ncaus. Txawm ces, tus me nyuam tub txuj ci ua nws txoj kev sab nraum thiab demanded paub.

Pol Puare loj hlob nrog peb cov muam, ib tug (Nicole Grult) tom qab ua hauj lwm los tsim dresses thiab txawm tau nws tus kheej kev zam tsev nyob rau hauv Paris. Qhov thib ob kuj tau koob meej, txawm li cas los, yog twb muaj koj shlyapnitsy. Dua li ntawm qhov khees fascination tub zam thiab txhua yam kev cob cog rua nrog nws, kuv txiv yeej tsis xav kom coj nws tiag, li ntawd, hais tias tus tub hluas kawm tsis nyob rau hauv tsev kawm ntawv. Tom qab nws kawm tiav, nws tau muab nws ib txoj hauj lwm tub txib los ntawm tus naas ej masters rau zus tau tej cov umbrellas. Tab sis tsis ntev, Pol Puare (saib duab. Hauv qab no) sab laug lub rhiav. Noj txiav ntawm txhob lo lo ntxhuav ntaub, nws tau los ua lawv cov thawj xaws khaub ncaws rau me nyuam roj hmab, pub los ntawm cov muam ib zaug.

Thaum pib ntawm ib tug muaj tswv yim txoj kev

Lawv cov hauj lwm yav tom ntej zoo tswv pib mus ua hauj lwm ntawm tus naas ej Fabkis txoj kev zam designer thiab collector Jacques Doucet yog ces tus studio ntawm Charles Tsim, qhov uas nws yog tsuas yog koom nyob rau hauv lub tsim thiab tailoring ntawm txheej khaub ncaws (tsho tiv no, capes). Thiab twb nyob rau hauv 1903, Pol Puare tsim nws tus kheej kev zam tsev. Cov kev vam meej yog tiag tiag stunning thiab xob laim, feem ntau vim cov twb kis tau kev sib txuas thiab muaj koob meej ntawm neeg noble, aristocracy.

Nws nquag nce rov qab mus txoj kev zam ntawm ancient sij hawm, thiab coined lub hnav ib yam li ib tug tunic thiab peplos, thiab thov ib tug tshiab Parisian raws li peb yuav hais tias hnub no, qhov sib - lub kimono.

domesticity

Pol Puare - zam kev xav ua cim, kaj thiab addicting xwm. nws tsuas yuav tsis muaj nyob tsis muaj ib tug muse. Nws los ua Deniza Bule, uas nws yuav nyob rau hauv 1909. Raws li muaj leej twg paub los ntawm tus tswv, nws yog tus embodiment ntawm tag nrho cov hom phiaj. Charming poj niam los rau hauv lub xeev ras neeg nyob thiab kaj, cim thiab exquisite costumes tsim tshwj xeeb tshaj yog rau nws, qhia nws kev zoo nkauj. Txhua yam ntawm tus ntawv twb hloov mus rau hauv ib qho kev tshwm sim, ib tug nov ntawm nqaij tawv. Ib ob peb tswv yim txog cov xov xwm thiab zej zog. Yeej tam sim no nyob rau hauv lawv lub neej mob siab ua shocking cov pej xeem, xeeb tej zaum mus rau lub point ntawm scandal. Nws yog thaum lub sij hawm lub sij hawm no lub sij hawm Pol Puare (saib tiab. Pictured) pom koob meej raws li qhov feem ntau eminent zam designers ntawm lub ntiaj teb no, nws yog muab piv nrog rau cov artist, tus creator, thiab cov xov xwm pouring tawm, raws li yog hais tias los ib cornucopia.

Qhov ob peb thiab los ua nto moo raws li organizers grandiose costume tog neeg uas ua txhua lub xyoo. Txhua cov nyiaj so koobtsheej nws muaj nws tus kheej lub ntsiab, tab sis yog tshwj xeeb yog nto moo rau yav tsaus ntuj "1002 th Hmo ntuj", muaj nyob rau hauv 1911.

Tu siab, tsis yog txhua txhua lub zoo nkauj dab neeg muaj tsim nyog txuas ntxiv thiab kawm tiav. Qhov ob peb sib nrauj nyob rau hauv 1928, thaum cov nyiaj txiag zoo-ua Poiret pib tsis kam. Yuav ua li cas yog qhov tseeb vim li cas rau kev sib cais tis tom qab thiaj li muaj ntau lub xyoo, hais tsis muaj ib tug yuav. Txawm li cas los, nyob rau hauv ib tug ntawv xov xwm sib tham Denise liam hais tias nws phem thiab Poiret, nyob rau hauv lem, hu ua nws tus cwj pwm offensive.

Pawg lwm haiv tib motives nyob rau hauv tej hauj lwm

Nyob rau hauv 1910, tom qab ib tug mus ntsib mus rau "Scheherazade" tus neeg dhia tes nyob rau hauv Paris, Pol Puare yog li ntawd impressed hais tias kuv yuav tsis dhau mus rau hauv lub povhaum thiab paub tsis meej ntawm sab hnub tuaj. Rau cov thawj lub sij hawm nyob rau hauv nws cov collections twb ua qauv nrog haiv neeg motifs, thiab ib xyoos tom qab ntawd nws txawm tsa ib costume ntsiab tog "Txhiab thib ob hmo ntuj." Couturier nws tus kheej nyob rau hauv daim ntawv ntawm cov influential sultan. Tom qab xws li ib tug zoo kawg kev tshwm sim oriental motifs nyob rau hauv cov ris tsho rau ib ntev lub sij hawm muaj socialites. Dav ris ntev thiab daim tiab, ris, turbans - tag nrho cov no tau los ua ib tug kab txawv ib pab tub rog rau ib hmo tawm.

Lavxias teb sab style nyob rau hauv tej hauj lwm ntawm kev zam designers

Rau cov thawj lub sij hawm Lavxias teb sab txuj ci Poiret ces yuav tsum thaum mus xyuas tus neeg dhia tes, uas qhuas tag nrho ntawm cov teb chaws Europe. Attracted los ntawm lub originality thiab flair, nws txiav txim siab los mus nyob rau ib ncig ntawm Eastern Europe, xws li Moscow thiab St. Petersburg. Lub npe nrov couturiers tuaj mus rau ib tug ua tiav delight los ntawm cov Lavxias teb sab pej xeem costume (lush sundresses, kichek, blouses, corbel, ntoo phuam thiab shawls). Nws txawm coj ib qhov nqi ntawm cov khaub ncaws nrog koj mus rau lub capital ntawm zam. Tus hluas, zoo nkauj paj thiab ornamental - tag nrho cov no Pol Puare (tiab qhia nyob rau hauv cov kev yees duab) siv los tsim lub ntiaj teb no tus thawj sau los ntawm cov khaub ncaws nrog Lavxias teb sab motifs. nws "Kazan" hu ua.

Los ntawm Paul Poiret lub tsho tiv no

Nyob rau hauv nws cov haiv neeg daim ntawv nyob rau hauv no lub caij yog feeb Lavxias teb sab neeg pluag costume to taub lub tsho tiv no nrog ncaj cov tes tsho thiab rov qab, neotreznoy lub duav rov sauv kab. Paul Poiret lub tsho tiv no - ib tug stylized, tus ntoo khaub lig-txuas rau thawj lub sij hawm rau kuv tus poj niam Denise ce. Rau nws, siv tsaus ntuj nti luxurious ntaub, txog lub originality thiab tsw ntawm Lavxias teb sab style.

Immortal zeej designer

Niaj hnub nimno tus poj niam wardrobe tsuas yog inconceivable tsis muaj tus elegant thiab tau ntxim hlub mem hluav tiab. Meanwhile, cov dab neeg uas nws creation mus rov qab mus rau thaum pib ntawm lub thib nees nkaum caug xyoo. "Limping yubkayubka" xyoo - hais tias thaum ib tsab tsim. Pol Puare hu ua nws hais tias txoj kev vim lub fact tias lub vos taw tiab impeded zog, thiab cov poj niam raug yuam mus mince, tsiv kauj ruam me me. "Ceg tawv tiab" tsim lub hauv paus ntawm tsis tsuas yog lub silhouette, "mem hluav", tab sis kuj lub xyoo, tus naas ej thiab nrov silhouette ntawm "mermaid" rau yav tsaus ntuj thiab kab tshoob dresses.

Phau ntawv P. Poiret

Tiv thaiv txoj hmoo thiab lub nyuaj lub neej tshwm sim nyob rau hauv lub xyoo 1930 designer cia tawm peb ntawm nws phau ntawv: "Zam thiab nyiaj txiag", "Hnav khaub ncaws lub era" thiab "Mus rov qab!". Tag nrho cov ntawm lawv, nyob rau hauv qhov tseeb, sawv cev rau ib tug memoir. Colossal ua hauj lwm, nyeem hais tias - nws yog ib tug Library, ib tug tag nrho series uas nto moo npe, highlights nyob rau tom qab ntawm tus ua txoj keeb kwm ntawm lub thib nees nkaum xyoo pua .. Pol Puare yog ib tug neeg ntawm extraordinary thiab multi-ncau, nws tau caw raws li ib tug lecturer nyob rau Sorbonne, thiab theaters tej zaum muab kev txiav txim los mus tsim costumes.

Forgetting tus poj zam designer

Nrog rau 20-ies ntawm lub xyoo pua xeem, ib tug capricious zam tiam sis tau pib rau undergo cov kev hloov, tej yam nyob rau hauv lub ntiaj teb no, thiab nom tswv nyuaj siab ntxhov plawv, kev tsov kev rog. Nyob rau hauv lub keeb kwm ntawm txhua yam, thiab ib co npe yog hloov los ntawm lwm tus neeg. Yog li ntawd nws yog nrog Paul Poiret. Tshwj xeeb tshaj yog ib qho ntawm nws cov competitors yog hais tsis muaj tsawg tshaj li tus poj Koko Shanel. Cov designer yuav tsis hloov mus rau cov kev hloov lub ntiaj teb no thiaj li ceev nrooj, raws li ib tug tshwm sim ntawm uas nws tau raug tshem tawm los ntawm lub zam Olympus. Tom qab 1925 nws yog nyob rau lub verge ntawm cov neeg txom nyem thiab twb yuam kom muag nws studio, ib tug sau ntawm paintings thiab lwm yam art khoom. Nws tuag nyob rau hauv cov neeg txom nyem thiab oblivion nyob rau hauv 1944. Thiab tsuas yog ib lub xyoo caum thiab ib tug ib nrab ntawm cov neeg tuaj saib ib zaug dua nco ntsoov hais tias lub npe - Pol Puare. Sketches thiab extant cov ntawv luam ntawm tus sau khaub ncaws twb raug nws ex-tus poj niam. Lub sij hawm ua ib tug ntau round, thiab, tom qab ib tug txaus ntshai tsov ua rog, neeg xav kom ib tug tsis saib tsis xyuas, kaj, unbridled kev zoo nkauj.

Nyob rau hauv 2005, los ntawm koj tus kheej sau los ntawm nws tus poj niam thiab cov me nyuam Poiret tau muag ntau tshaj rau puas txawv cov khoom ntawm cov khaub ncaws. Ib co ntawm cov ntau ntau twb nrog los ntawm cov duab los ntawm koj tus kheej tsev neeg archives. Txuj ci tseem ceeb fwm tej yam (tsis yeej ib txwm nyob rau hauv zoo mob) mus rau tus naas ej puas ntawm lub ntiaj teb no ntawm zam.

Pol Puare - King ntawm zam ntawm lub thib nees nkaum xyoo pua, uas tau muab cov poj niam txoj kev ywj pheej nyob rau hauv lub literal thiab figurative tsis totaub. Nws ua ib tug kiv puag ncig nyob rau hauv lub poj niam 'locker chav tsev, thawj npaj siab mus tso tseg corsets, ntev braid, thiab sim nyob rau hauv cov ris. Kaj Star feemxyuam tswv, hmoov tsis, ci luv luv, tab sis nws lub npe yog mus ib txhis inscribed nyob rau hauv lub keeb kwm.